Chef Ando - KAI, The Spice Table, Villa Tokay Resort

Indonesia Meets The Mediterranean

For Ando, the chef at KAI, The Spice Table at the Villa Tokay Resort, a love of food and cooking began early. After moving to Bali from his home in Surabaya, he discovered whole new worlds to explore. He spoke with MyGilis recently and explained how it all came about.

When did your interest in food begin?

My love for food started at home. I would wake up to the wonderful smell of my mother’s cooking and head straight to the kitchen to find out what she was doing. That early curiosity and fascination led me to study Culinary Management at STP Nusa Dua Bali. It was the beginning of my professional life in the kitchen.

Tell us something about your career and some of the places you have worked

When I moved to Bali it was a turning point. I was suddenly introduced to a whole new world of food. I had the opportunity to connect with remarkable chefs from around the globe and have exposure to some of the island’s most inspiring kitchens.

The moment I realised a chef’s career could be creative and highly rewarding financially, I knew it was for me.

I wanted to learn all I could, so I trained in Penang, Malaysia, and in the Maldives. These international environments played a significant role in shaping my mindset, teaching me how to collaborate across cultures and adapt different culinary perspectives.

Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of working at the Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu, The Cave By Chef Ryan Clift and Maya Sanur, in Bali. All of these great experiences are reflected in my current work at KAI, The Spice Table.

How would you describe your style of cooking?

My cooking style is simple and focused on highlighting the natural flavours of each main ingredient. I try to bring out the magic in every core component, and then enhance it with touches of spice and seasoning.

Where do you find inspiration for your dishes?

I take inspiration from the street food I love to try, from various ingredients and cooking techniques I’ve learned from the chefs I’ve worked with, and even from Instagram.

Do you have a particular ‘philosophy of cooking’?

For me, cooking is all about joy. Every dish should come from a happy heart. It’s not just about flavours and making food taste good; it’s about creating an experience that lingers and a memory that stays with the people who sit down to enjoy it.

What’s the best piece of cooking-related advice you’ve ever received?

Two pieces of advice come to mind – from two different chefs I worked for. First, ‘Good things always take time’ and second, ‘When you do something, do it properly’.

Tell us about the concept for your menu at KAI, The Spice Table

I suppose our philosophy focuses on celebrating the rich, vibrant flavours of Indonesian spices, balanced with subtle Mediterranean influences. The lunch menu is designed to be playful and approachable. We serve ‘comfort food’ that’s great to look at as well as taste; it’s presented on rustic wooden, rattan or stoneware plates, for a warm, casual feel. Dinner is a completely different experience. It’s more immersive and refined, and each dish is carefully crafted and presented on ceramic and clay tableware. The flavours are more intense and the techniques more intricate. We’re aiming for a dining experience that engages all the senses – appearance, taste, texture and aroma.

What are your favourite dishes and ingredients?

I love to make Indonesian home-style meals, such as bubur ayam, a traditional chicken, rice and vegetable dish, sayur lodeh, which is a vegetable dish cooked with coconut milk, or nasi goreng, a spicy fried rice dish, with a lot of chillies.

I also enjoy cooking with kecombrang (ginger flower), cabai rawit (cayenne pepper), kemangi (lemon basil), gula merah (palm sugar) and virgin coconut oil.

Describe a typical day at work.

My day is a mix of creativity, leadership and hands-on cooking. Mornings often start with a bit of research. I experiment with ideas for upcoming menu items and work on refining flavours. During the day, I meet with the team to review the previous night’s dinner service; we celebrate what went well, share constructive feedback and make sure everyone’s aligned on our standards. I also manage the paperwork and design individual development programs for the staff, because nurturing talent is just as important as perfecting a dish. By evening, it’s all hands on deck as we take our positions for dinner service. We’re all focused on delivering a dining experience that’s memorable.

What is most rewarding about your job

There are so many things. I get to travel the world, exploring new flavours and cultures. I meet VIPs and have the chance to make them happy with my food, and to create moments they’ll never forget. I’m constantly pushed to grow – not just in the kitchen, but as a person. I can shape my skills and my perspective and find a deeper sense of purpose every single day.

What is the biggest challenge?

The biggest challenge is maintaining motivation when the pressure is high and staying focused and strong during busy or difficult times, and never becoming complacent. It’s always important to improve, no matter what level you’ve reached in your career.

What are your hopes and plans for the future?

My goal is to share the richness of Indonesian cuisine with the world, and to bring KAI, The Spice Table into the international spotlight. I want people everywhere to experience the depth of our flavours, the creativity behind our dishes, and the stories that each spice and ingredient can tell. Ultimately, it’s about making Indonesian culinary culture recognised, respected and celebrated globally.

What do you like most about living on Gili Air?

The community is amazing, the nature is stunning and the beaches are absolutely beautiful. There’s no pollution and, unlike some neighbouring islands, you don’t have to take a long boat ride to get around; that’s definitely a plus! And of course, as a food lover, I can’t get enough of all the great restaurants scattered across the island.

Apart from cooking and creating dishes, what other things do you really enjoy?

I really enjoy everything related to music, especially singing. If I hadn’t become a chef, I think I might have tried to become a singer… maybe.

What foods do you really love to eat?

When I was asked this, I used to answer indomie goreng (fried noodles), but now I really love to eat foods that are simple but hearty.

Is there anything you would never eat?

I would never eat a ‘poison’ that looks like a food – the very spicy instant noodles, for example. You will get nothing but sickness from things like that.

If you had the opportunity, who would you choose to cook for a meal for you?

I would love to try Chef Mandif Warokka’s food again. He is really good at harmonising flavours.

Who is your favourite celebrity chef?

Chef Eric Ripert from Le Bernardin, in NYC, because he puts his heart into his cooking, and his restaurant has survived for years.

What would you say are the most important qualities that make a successful chef?

A strong will to keep learning and to stay out of your comfort zone.

Do you have any tips for budding chefs?

My advice is to stay curious and never stop learning. Be open to new techniques, flavours, and cultures, and don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Every challenge is an opportunity to grow. Most importantly, always cook with passion and dedication, because that’s what makes your food memorable.

Andos’s passion for food is best understood through the dishes he creates. Below, he shares one of his recipes, giving us a taste of the flavours and ideas behind his cooking.

Nasi Kuning Arancini with Mozzarella & Sambal Mayo

Ingredients:

Yellow Rice:

• 100 g cooked rice
• 30 ml coconut milk
• 1 tsp turmeric powder
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1 shallot, minced
• ½ tsp salt
• ¼ tsp sugar

Arancini:

• 10 g mozzarella cheese, cut into small cubes
• 1 sheet nori, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 1 small egg, beaten
• 2 tbsp bread crumbs
• Tempeh chips (whole), to place on top as garnish
• Sambal mayo, to serve

Method:

1. Prepare the yellow rice:
   • In a small pan heat a little oil, then sauté the garlic and shallots until fragrant.
   • Add turmeric powder, salt, and sugar, stir briefly.
   • Add the cooked rice and coconut milk, cook over low heat until fully infused with flavor. Allow to cool slightly.
2. Mak the Nasi Kuning arancini balls:
   • Take about 40 g of rice and flatten it in your hand.
   • Place a small cube of mozzarella (10 g) in the center, fold rice around it, shaping it into a ball.
   • Mix some chopped nori onto the outer layer for extra flavor.
3. Coat the arancini:
   • Roll each rice ball first in flour, then dip in beaten egg, and finally coat evenly with breadcrumbs.
4. Cook the arancini:
   • Deep-fry or pan-fry over medium heat until golden brown and crispy on all sides.
     Remove and drain on paper towels.

To Serve:

Place the three Nasi Kuning Arancini balls on a plate, place one whole tempeh chip on top of each ball as garnish, and serve with sambal mayo.

Watermelon Gohu with Kenari, Avocado Mayo & Watercress

Ingredients

Gohu:

• 100 g watermelon, diced small
• 1 tbsp lime juice
• ½ tsp salt
• ½ tsp sugar
• 1 tsp chili, finely chopped (optional, adjust to taste)

For the base:

• 1 tbsp Kenari, chopped

Avocado mayo:

• 20 g ripe avocado
• ½ tsp lime juice
• ½ tsp salad oil
• Pinch of salt and pepper

Garnish:

• Small watercress sprigs

Method:

1. Prepare the watermelon gohu:
   • In a bowl, combine diced watermelon with lime juice, salt, sugar, and chopped chili. Gently mix and let it marinate for 5–10 minutes to allow flavors to meld.
2. Prepare the avocado mayo:
   • Mash the avocado in a small bowl.
   • Add lime juice, salad oil, and season with salt and pepper. Mix until smooth and creamy.
3. Assemble with ring cutter:
   • Place chopped Kenari on the serving plate as the base.
   • Using a ring cutter, mold the marinated watermelon into a neat cylinder on top of the Kenari base.
4. Add garnish:
   • Top each watermelon gohu with a small dollop of avocado mayo.
   • Finish with fresh watercress sprigs for color and a subtle peppery note.

To Serve:

Serve immediately as a refreshing starter, balancing sweet, tangy, creamy, and crunchy textures.